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How do I remove the strut valve??????
I’ve given up trying to find, what would seem to be standard information for Griffin kite repair, how to remove and repair the one-pump strut valves. Two of my 2013 TRX7 Pro strut valves are leaking every time I fly it, causing me to re-inflate the kite every 30minutes or less. After less than a dozen or so outings, the center strut valve started leaking. A few outings later and the redline side strut valve started leaking. Both leaks are at the base of the valves. If I push slightly on the plastic sleeve covering of the valve stem, I get bubbles. It doesn’t seem right that the valves are leaking at this early stage of use. I was too lazy to repair the slow center strut leak, but the two leaks together are just too much.
All that said, I tried to repair them, and could not remove the valve cover to get to the valve and remove the bladder, and I do not want to tear the bladder trying to do so. The valve type is complex compared to other types that I can find removal and repair instructions on, for other kites. However, again I cannot find what should be easy to find on the Griffin website; how to remove and repair the one-pump strut valve. (Mind you, I just bought a new 2014 17m Argo; I love the Griffin ride; the Griffin documentation for user manuals and repair support is another issue.)
Where can I find this information? How do I remove the strut valve?
now that you tell it, I have never tried to remove a strut valve... I have never tought about how to do it, but I thought it should be not difficult.
We've been working on user manuals (2013-2015)even they are still not available, but didn't thought on including this info on them. It will be included as it can be useful for everyone. Hope to have them availables soon. It should be not excuse but have been working hard in other priorities. The user manuals are being revised and are still on the list. We'll try to make them availables soon.
Chris, the designer, will reply if there is no reply before he can do it.
Thanks for asking and for your comments. We'll try to improve it.
All my best,
It' seems not to be difficult, as the system is thought to be used as single point inflation or not.
I suppose it's only necessary to take out the plastic clamp, disconnect the tube, and take out the "valve cap" (that is a kind of a cap addapter to be used as single point inflation and can be replaced by a standard cap supplied as a spare when buying the kite. Then should be necessary just to take out the black valve protector.
Just tell me if it's not as I think it is ;)
Next week I'll replace my 12m TRX LE bladder, so I'll check and confirm :)
Here is how 2013/2014 one pump valves should be removed. Is exactly as I thought:
Thanks for the response and description. I figured it out the hard way before getting an answer, but I do hope this goes in the user manual you are working on for others.
My next concern, because one of the valves is leaking at the base and will need replaced, is what is the best way to replace the valve. The valve ring seal to the bladder seems to be made of a nylon like material rather than the plastic bladder material, and I am concerned about adhesion if I just cut the old valve nipple off, and slap another peal and stick valve on top of the original valve ring. I am also assuming I need to replace the valve with a 9mm inflation valve like the one at Airtime ( www.airtimekite.com/index.php/airtime-ki...tion-valve-2160.html ). And that I must remove the one-way flap and cap flap for one-pump operation. I am also wondering if I should use one of their valve traps.
In any case what is the recommended valve replacement method and valve type? Hope we can resolved this soon, I'd really like to get the kite back on the water.
Hi Ron, sorry about my late reply, but I've been disconnected some days...
You should warm up the valve to separate it from bladder. If you can peel off the old valve you should need only a valve trap to re-stick the original valve (valve trap is only needed when you are re-sticking original valves or replacing valves with a not self-sticking "system" on it) --> If the valve is working well but just leaking air on the basis (where the valve is sticked to the bladder) is cheaper to re-stick the original valve using a valve trap than replacing the original valve with a new self-sticking one, so just try first to peel off the original valve warming it up with a hair-dryer or hot water (fill a cup with boiling water using a thermal cup if possible, as it retains the full heat for longer, scrunch up the bladder and valve and submerge for 10 min; valve should just peel off ,if it's stuck well just repeat the process again), then just stick on the new valve or re-stick the old one using the valve trap.
If you want to replace the original valve, you are right, you need to replace the valve once the original valve has been peeled off with a 9mm inflation valve like the one at Airtime ( www.airtimekite.com/index.php/airtime-ki...tion-valve-2160.html --> We are working with Airtime so they can supply universal and original Griffin spare bladders, and this will be the one supplied as standard) and you must remove the one-way flap and cap flap for one-pump operation. If you are replacing the original valve with a U-stick 9mm valve (once the original valve has been peeled off) you don't need to use a valve trap, as the U-stick valve is a self-sticking one.
If the valve doesn't peel off you can try to cut all round the old valve ring (as close as you can to make the hole as small as possible) and stick a new one using the valve trap (wider diameter than the original valve ring). Anyway, try first to peel of the valve using the hair-dryer or boiling water).